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the uncommercial traveller-第20部分
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get a glimpse of the disconsolate moon。 We all know the new
people; who have come to keep the new hotel; and who wish they had
never come; and who (inevitable result) wish WE had never come。 We
all know how much too scant and smooth and bright the new furniture
is; and how it has never settled down; and cannot fit itself into
right places; and will get into wrong places。 We all know how the
gas; being lighted; shows maps of Damp upon the walls。 We all know
how the ghost of mortar passes into our sandwich; stirs our negus;
goes up to bed with us; ascends the pale bedroom chimney; and
prevents the smoke from following。 We all know how a leg of our
chair comes off at breakfast in the morning; and how the dejected
waiter attributes the accident to a general greenness pervading the
establishment; and informs us; in reply to a local inquiry; that he
is thankful to say he is an entire stranger in that part of the
country and is going back to his own connexion on Saturday。
We all know; on the other hand; the great station hotel belonging
to the company of proprietors; which has suddenly sprung up in the
back outskirts of any place we like to name; and where we look out
of our palatial windows at little back yards and gardens; old
summer…houses; fowl…houses; pigeon…traps; and pigsties。 We all
know this hotel in which we can get anything we want; after its
kind; for money; but where nobody is glad to see us; or sorry to
see us; or minds (our bill paid) whether we come or go; or how; or
when; or why; or cares about us。 We all know this hotel; where we
have no individuality; but put ourselves into the general post; as
it were; and are sorted and disposed of according to our division。
We all know that we can get on very well indeed at such a place;
but still not perfectly well; and this may be; because the place is
largely wholesale; and there is a lingering personal retail
interest within us that asks to be satisfied。
To sum up。 My uncommercial travelling has not yet brought me to
the conclusion that we are close to perfection in these matters。
And just as I do not believe that the end of the world will ever be
near at hand; so long as any of the very tiresome and arrogant
people who constantly predict that catastrophe are left in it; so;
I shall have small faith in the Hotel Millennium; while any of the
uncomfortable superstitions I have glanced at remain in existence。
CHAPTER VII … TRAVELLING ABROAD
I got into the travelling chariot … it was of German make; roomy;
heavy; and unvarnished … I got into the travelling chariot; pulled
up the steps after me; shut myself in with a smart bang of the
door; and gave the word; 'Go on!'
Immediately; all that W。 and S。W。 division of London began to slide
away at a pace so lively; that I was over the river; and past the
Old Kent Road; and out on Blackheath; and even ascending Shooter's
Hill; before I had had time to look about me in the carriage; like
a collected traveller。
I had two ample Imperials on the roof; other fitted storage for
luggage in front; and other up behind; I had a net for books
overhead; great pockets to all the windows; a leathern pouch or two
hung up for odds and ends; and a reading lamp fixed in the back of
the chariot; in case I should be benighted。 I was amply provided
in all respects; and had no idea where I was going (which was
delightful); except that I was going abroad。
So smooth was the old high road; and so fresh were the horses; and
so fast went I; that it was midway between Gravesend and Rochester;
and the widening river was bearing the ships; white sailed or
black…smoked; out to sea; when I noticed by the wayside a very
queer small boy。
'Holloa!' said I; to the very queer small boy; 'where do you live?'
'At Chatham;' says he。
'What do you do there?' says I。
'I go to school;' says he。
I took him up in a moment; and we went on。 Presently; the very
queer small boy says; 'This is Gads…hill we are coming to; where
Falstaff went out to rob those travellers; and ran away。'
'You know something about Falstaff; eh?' said I。
'All about him;' said the very queer small boy。 'I am old (I am
nine); and I read all sorts of books。 But DO let us stop at the
top of the hill; and look at the house there; if you please!'
'You admire that house?' said I。
'Bless you; sir;' said the very queer small boy; 'when I was not
more than half as old as nine; it used to be a treat for me to be
brought to look at it。 And now; I am nine; I come by myself to
look at it。 And ever since I can recollect; my father; seeing me
so fond of it; has often said to me; 〃If you were to be very
persevering and were to work hard; you might some day come to live
in it。〃 Though that's impossible!' said the very queer small boy;
drawing a low breath; and now staring at the house out of window
with all his might。
I was rather amazed to be told this by the very queer small boy;
for that house happens to be MY house; and I have reason to believe
that what he said was true。
Well! I made no halt there; and I soon dropped the very queer
small boy and went on。 Over the road where the old Romans used to
march; over the road where the old Canterbury pilgrims used to go;
over the road where the travelling trains of the old imperious
priests and princes used to jingle on horseback between the
continent and this Island through the mud and water; over the road
where Shakespeare hummed to himself; 'Blow; blow; thou winter
wind;' as he sat in the saddle at the gate of the inn yard noticing
the carriers; all among the cherry orchards; apple orchards; corn…
fields; and hop…gardens; so went I; by Canterbury to Dover。 There;
the sea was tumbling in; with deep sounds; after dark; and the
revolving French light on Cape Grinez was seen regularly bursting
out and becoming obscured; as if the head of a gigantic light…
keeper in an anxious state of mind were interposed every half…
minute; to look how it was burning。
Early in the morning I was on the deck of the steam…packet; and we
were aiming at the bar in the usual intolerable manner; and the bar
was aiming at us in the usual intolerable manner; and the bar got
by far the best of it; and we got by far the worst … all in the
usual intolerable manner。
But; when I was clear of the Custom House on the other side; and
when I began to make the dust fly on the thirsty French roads; and
when the twigsome trees by the wayside (which; I suppose; never
will grow leafy; for they never did) guarded here and there a dusty
soldier; or field labourer; baking on a heap of broken stones;
sound asleep in a fiction of shade; I began to recover my
travelling spirits。 Coming upon the breaker of the broken stones;
in a hard; hot; shining hat; on which the sun played at a distance
as on a burning…glass; I felt that now; indeed; I was in the dear
old France of my affections。
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