an inland voyage-第27部分

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s　　of　unknown　yielding　substance　in　the　RAGOUT。　　The　butcher　　entertained　us　with　pictures　of　Parisian　life；　with　which　he　　professed　himself　well　acquainted；　the　brother　sitting　the　while　on　　the　edge　of　the　billiard…table；　toppling　precariously；　and　sucking　　the　stump　of　a　cigar。　　In　the　midst　of　these　diversions；　bang　went　　a　drum　past　the　house；　and　a　hoarse　voice　began　issuing　a　　proclamation。　　It　was　a　man　with　marionnettes　announcing　a　　performance　for　that　evening。

He　had　set　up　his　caravan　and　lighted　his　candles　on　another　part　　of　the　girls'　croquet…green；　under　one　of　those　open　sheds　which　　are　so　common　in　France　to　shelter　markets；　and　he　and　his　wife；　by　　the　time　we　strolled　up　there；　were　trying　to　keep　order　with　the　　audience。

It　was　the　most　absurd　contention。　　The　show…people　had　set　out　a　　certain　number　of　benches；　and　all　who　sat　upon　them　were　to　pay　a　　couple　of　SOUS　for　the　accommodation。　　They　were　always　quite　full　　…　a　bumper　house　…　as　long　as　nothing　was　going　forward；　but　let　　the　show…woman　appear　with　an　eye　to　a　collection；　and　at　the　first　　rattle　of　her　tambourine　the　audience　slipped　off　the　seats；　and　　stood　round　on　the　outside　with　their　hands　in　their　pockets。　　It　　certainly　would　have　tried　an　angel's　temper。　　The　showman　roared　　from　the　proscenium；　he　had　been　all　over　France；　and　nowhere；　　nowhere；　'not　even　on　the　borders　of　Germany；'　had　he　met　with　such　　misconduct。　　Such　thieves　and　rogues　and　rascals；　as　he　called　　them！　　And　every　now　and　again；　the　wife　issued　on　another　round；　　and　added　her　shrill　quota　to　the　tirade。　　I　remarked　here；　as　　elsewhere；　how　far　more　copious　is　the　female　mind　in　the　material　　of　insult。　　The　audience　laughed　in　high　good…humour　over　the　man's　　declamations；　but　they　bridled　and　cried　aloud　under　the　woman's　　pungent　sallies。　　She　picked　out　the　sore　points。　　She　had　the　　honour　of　the　village　at　her　mercy。　　Voices　answered　her　angrily　　out　of　the　crowd；　and　received　a　smarting　retort　for　their　trouble。　　　A　couple　of　old　ladies　beside　me；　who　had　duly　paid　for　their　　seats；　waxed　very　red　and　indignant；　and　discoursed　to　each　other　　audibly　about　the　impudence　of　these　mountebanks；　but　as　soon　as　　the　show…woman　caught　a　whisper　of　this；　she　was　down　upon　them　　with　a　swoop：　　if　mesdames　could　persuade　their　neighbours　to　act　　with　common　honesty；　the　mountebanks；　she　assured　them；　would　be　　polite　enough：　　mesdames　had　probably　had　their　bowl　of　soup；　and　　perhaps　a　glass　of　wine　that　evening；　the　mountebanks　also　had　a　　taste　for　soup；　and　did　not　choose　to　have　their　little　earnings　　stolen　from　them　before　their　eyes。　　Once；　things　came　as　far　as　a　　brief　personal　encounter　between　the　show…man　and　some　lads；　in　　which　the　former　went　down　as　readily　as　one　of　his　own　　marionnettes　to　a　peal　of　jeering　laughter。

I　was　a　good　deal　astonished　at　this　scene；　because　I　am　pretty　　well　acquainted　with　the　ways　of　French　strollers；　more　or　less　　artistic；　and　have　always　found　them　singularly　pleasing。　　Any　　stroller　must　be　dear　to　the　right…thinking　heart；　if　it　were　only　　as　a　living　protest　against　offices　and　the　mercantile　spirit；　and　　as　something　to　remind　us　that　life　is　not　by　necessity　the　kind　of　　thing　we　generally　make　it。　　Even　a　German　band；　if　you　see　it　　leaving　town　in　the　early　morning　for　a　campaign　in　country　places；　　among　trees　and　meadows；　has　a　romantic　flavour　for　the　　imagination。　　There　is　nobody；　under　thirty；　so　dead　but　his　heart　　will　stir　a　little　at　sight　of　a　gypsies'　camp。　　'We　are　not　　cotton…spinners　all'；　or；　at　least；　not　all　through。　　There　is　some　　life　in　humanity　yet：　　and　youth　will　now　and　again　find　a　brave　　word　to　say　in　dispraise　of　riches；　and　throw　up　a　situation　to　go　　strolling　with　a　knapsack。

An　Englishman　has　always　special　facilities　for　intercourse　with　　French　gymnasts；　for　England　is　the　natural　home　of　gymnasts。　　This　　or　that　fellow；　in　his　tights　and　spangles；　is　sure　to　know　a　word　　or　two　of　English；　to　have　drunk　English　AFF…'N…AFF；　and　perhaps　　performed　in　an　English　music…hall。　　He　is　a　countryman　of　mine　by　　profession。　　He　leaps；　like　the　Belgian　boating　men；　to　the　notion　　that　I　must　be　an　athlete　myself。

But　the　gymnast　is　not　my　favourite；　he　has　little　or　no　tincture　　of　the　artist　in　his　composition；　his　soul　is　small　and　pedestrian；　　for　the　most　part；　since　his　profession　makes　no　call　upon　it；　and　　does　not　accustom　him　to　high　ideas。　　But　if　a　man　is　only　so　much　　of　an　actor　that　he　can　stumble　through　a　farce；　he　is　made　free　of　　a　new　order　of　thoughts。　　He　has　something　else　to　think　about　　beside　the　money…box。　　He　has　a　pride　of　his　own；　and；　what　is　of　　far　more　importance；　he　has　an　aim　before　him　that　he　can　never　　quite　attain。　　He　has　gone　upon　a　pilgrimage　that　will　last　him　his　　life　long；　because　there　is　no　end　to　it　short　of　perfection。　　He　　will　better　upon　himself　a　little　day　by　day；　or　even　if　he　has　　given　up　the　attempt；　he　will　always　remember　that　once　upon　a　time　　he　had　conceived　this　high　ideal；　that　once　upon　a　time　he　had　　fallen　in　love　with　a　star。　　''Tis　better　to　have　loved　and　lost。'　　　Although　the　moon　should　have　nothing　to　say　to　Endymion；　although　　he　should　settle　down　with　Audrey　and　feed　pigs；　do　you　not　think　　he　would　move　with　a　better　grace；　and　cherish　higher　thoughts　to　　the　end？　　The　louts　he　meets　at　church　never　had　a　fancy　above　　Audrey's　snood；　but　there　is　a　reminiscence　in　Endymion's　heart　　that；　like　a　spice；　keeps　it　fresh　and　haughty。

To　be　even　one　of　the　outskirters　of　art；　leaves　a　fine　stamp　on　a　　man's　countenance。　　I　remember　once　dining　with　a　party　in　the　inn　　at　Chateau　Landon。　　Most　of　them　were　unmistakable　bagmen；　others　　well…to…do　peasantry；　but　there　was　one　young　fellow　in　a　blouse；　　whose　face　stood　out　from　among　the　rest　surprisingly。　　It　looked　　more　finished；　more　of　the　spirit　looked　out　through　it；　it　had　a　　living；　expressive　air；　and　you　could　see　that　his　eyes　took　things　　in。　　My　companion　and　I　wondered　greatly　who　and　what　he　could　be。　　　It　was　fair…time　in　Chateau　Landon；　and　when　we　went　along　to　the　　booths；　we　had　our　question　answered；　for　there　was　our　friend　　busily　fiddling　for　the　peasants　to　caper　to。　　He　was　a　wandering　　violinist。

A　troop　of　strollers　once　came　to　the　inn　where　I　was　staying；　in　　the　department　of　Seine　et　Marne。　　There　was　a　father　and　mother；　　two　daughters；　brazen；　blowsy　hussies；　who　sang　and　acted；　without　　an　idea　of　how　to　set　about　either；　and　a　dark　young　man；　like　a　　tutor；　a　recalcitrant　house…painter；　who　sang　and　acted　not　amiss。　　　The　mother　was　the　genius　of　the　party；　so　far　as　genius　can　be　　spoken　of　with　regard　to　such　a　pack　of　incompetent　humbugs；　and　　her　husband　could　not　find　words　to　express　his　admiration　for　her　　comic　countryman。　　'You　should　see　my　old　woman；'　said　he；　and　　nodded　his　beery　countenance。　　One　night　they　performed　in　the　　stable…yard；　with　flaring　lamps　…　a　wretched　exhibition；　coldly　　looked　upon　by　a　village　audience。　　Next　night；　as　soon　as　the　　lamps　were　lighted；　there　came　a　plump　of　rain；　and　they　had　to　　sweep　away　their　baggage　as　fast　as　possible；　and　make　off　to　the　　barn　where