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an inland voyage-第10部分
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st appearance; we should behold him vanish with comparative equanimity。
The good folk of the inn at Pont; when we called there for the bags; were overcome with marvelling。 At sight of these two dainty little boats; with a fluttering Union Jack on each; and all the varnish shining from the sponge; they began to perceive that they had entertained angels unawares。 The landlady stood upon the bridge; probably lamenting she had charged so little; the son ran to and fro; and called out the neighbours to enjoy the sight; and we paddled away from quite a crowd of wrapt observers。 These gentlemen pedlars; indeed! Now you see their quality too late。
The whole day was showery; with occasional drenching plumps。 We were soaked to the skin; then partially dried in the sun; then soaked once more。 But there were some calm intervals; and one notably; when we were skirting the forest of Mormal; a sinister name to the ear; but a place most gratifying to sight and smell。 It looked solemn along the river…side; drooping its boughs into the water; and piling them up aloft into a wall of leaves。 What is a forest but a city of nature's own; full of hardy and innocuous living things; where there is nothing dead and nothing made with the hands; but the citizens themselves are the houses and public monuments? There is nothing so much alive; and yet so quiet; as a woodland; and a pair of people; swinging past in canoes; feel very small and bustling by comparison。
And surely of all smells in the world; the smell of many trees is the sweetest and most fortifying。 The sea has a rude; pistolling sort of odour; that takes you in the nostrils like snuff; and carries with it a fine sentiment of open water and tall ships; but the smell of a forest; which comes nearest to this in tonic quality; surpasses it by many degrees in the quality of softness。 Again; the smell of the sea has little variety; but the smell of a forest is infinitely changeful; it varies with the hour of the day; not in strength merely; but in character; and the different sorts of trees; as you go from one zone of the wood to another; seem to live among different kinds of atmosphere。 Usually the resin of the fir predominates。 But some woods are more coquettish in their habits; and the breath of the forest of Mormal; as it came aboard upon us that showery afternoon; was perfumed with nothing less delicate than sweetbrier。
I wish our way had always lain among woods。 Trees are the most civil society。 An old oak that has been growing where he stands since before the Reformation; taller than many spires; more stately than the greater part of mountains; and yet a living thing; liable to sicknesses and death; like you and me: is not that in itself a speaking lesson in history? But acres on acres full of such patriarchs contiguously rooted; their green tops billowing in the wind; their stalwart younglings pushing up about their knees: a whole forest; healthy and beautiful; giving colour to the light; giving perfume to the air: what is this but the most imposing piece in nature's repertory? Heine wished to lie like Merlin under the oaks of Broceliande。 I should not be satisfied with one tree; but if the wood grew together like a banyan grove; I would be buried under the tap…root of the whole; my parts should circulate from oak to oak; and my consciousness should be diffused abroad in all the forest; and give a common heart to that assembly of green spires; so that it also might rejoice in its own loveliness and dignity。 I think I feel a thousand squirrels leaping from bough to bough in my vast mausoleum; and the birds and the winds merrily coursing over its uneven; leafy surface。
Alas! the forest of Mormal is only a little bit of a wood; and it was but for a little way that we skirted by its boundaries。 And the rest of the time the rain kept coming in squirts and the wind in squalls; until one's heart grew weary of such fitful; scolding weather。 It was odd how the showers began when we had to carry the boats over a lock; and must expose our legs。 They always did。 This is a sort of thing that readily begets a personal feeling against nature。 There seems no reason why the shower should not come five minutes before or five minutes after; unless you suppose an intention to affront you。 The CIGARETTE had a mackintosh which put him more or less above these contrarieties。 But I had to bear the brunt uncovered。 I began to remember that nature was a woman。 My companion; in a rosier temper; listened with great satisfaction to my Jeremiads; and ironically concurred。 He instanced; as a cognate matter; the action of the tides; 'which;' said he; 'was altogether designed for the confusion of canoeists; except in so far as it was calculated to minister to a barren vanity on the part of the moon。'
At the last lock; some little way out of Landrecies; I refused to go any farther; and sat in a drift of rain by the side of the bank; to have a reviving pipe。 A vivacious old man; whom I take to have been the devil; drew near and questioned me about our journey。 In the fulness of my heart; I laid bare our plans before him。 He said it was the silliest enterprise that ever he heard of。 Why; did I not know; he asked me; that it was nothing but locks; locks; locks; the whole way? not to mention that; at this season of the year; we should find the Oise quite dry? 'Get into a train; my little young man;' said he; I and go you away home to your parents。' I was so astounded at the man's malice; that I could only stare at him in silence。 A tree would never have spoken to me like this。 At last I got out with some words。 We had come from Antwerp already; I told him; which was a good long way; and we should do the rest in spite of him。 Yes; I said; if there were no other reason; I would do it now; just because he had dared to say we could not。 The pleasant old gentleman looked at me sneeringly; made an allusion to my canoe; and marched of; waggling his head。
I was still inwardly fuming; when up came a pair of young fellows; who imagined I was the CIGARETTE'S servant; on a comparison; I suppose; of my bare jersey with the other's mackintosh; and asked me many questions about my place and my master's character。 I said he was a good enough fellow; but had this absurd voyage on the head。 'O no; no;' said one; 'you must not say that; it is not absurd; it is very courageous of him。' I believe these were a couple of angels sent to give me heart again。 It was truly fortifying to reproduce all the old man's insinuations; as if they were original to me in my character of a malcontent footman; and have them brushed away like so many flies by these admirable young men。
When I recounted this affair to the CIGARETTE; 'They must have a curious idea of how English servants behave;' says he dryly; 'for you treated me like a brute beast at the lock。'
I was a good deal mortified; but my temper had suffered; it is a fact。
AT LANDRECIES
AT Landrecies the rain still fell and the wind still blew; but we found a double…bedded room with plenty of furniture; real water… jugs with
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